Who doesn’t prefer driving a really clean car? Sure, but is it worth the effort? That’s up to you, but car cleaning is like so many other things; if you do it right and keep your hand on it, it becomes much easier – and satisfying to boot.Most of us probably opt for a quick wet brush with some car shampoo, followed by a rinse and chamois. Either that, or the local car wash!
That’s okay so far as it goes, but it won’t get your car really clean, or protect it for long. By contrast, this article aims to present the ultimate cleaning procedure. We are talking a glazed finish that slicks off water and makes it hard for dirt to stick. Even if you don’t follow all of the advice here, there are a number of tips worth noting.
Read on for the five steps to a concours look:
1. Washing is an important first step, because you have to remove the loose contaminants from the surface. It must not be done haphazardly, and the following pointers should be kept in mind.
o Rinse the entire vehicle first. This will help to cool the surface and rinse away loose debris.
o Start at the top and work down.
o Do not use household detergents, because they will strip wax and burn the paint. Rather use a good pH-balanced car shampoo.
o Don’t wash in direct sunlight or when the paintwork is hot to the touch. The soap will leave marks that are not easy to remove. In addition, on older cars the oils in the paint will rise to the top and be stripped off.
o Use one bucket for the wash solution and another for the rinsing cloth.
o The final rinse should be done with a stream of water, not a spray.
o Always remember to dry the door jambs.
2. Preparing the surface follows next. This entails removing contaminants and other defects that washing alone cannot achieve.
o A number of specialist products are available to help remove contaminants. One of them is a stick made up of special clay, not unlike modelling clay, called a clay bar. If it is rubbed over a painted surface, it will pick up any dirt particles, even if they are embedded in the surface.
o Don’t use compounds that are excessively abrasive.
o Desirable paint qualities, such as gloss, clarity, and durability, will only show up if the paint is perfectly clean.
3. Polishing is the next task.
The aim here is to produce a brilliant high gloss, and for the best results you should use a pure polish, rather than a product sold as a wax/polish.
o Dullness is mostly caused by oxidation of the outer paint layer, so that regular polishing is the best way to maintain a high gloss. It is especially effective on the darker colours.
o Polish also nourishes and conditions the paint, and creates the ultimate wet-look show-car shine.
4. Applying a protective wax to preserve the shine is vital. Note that many polishes also contain some wax, so that this step is only necessary if you want the ultimate protection.
o Use only a good quality wax that offers ultra-violet protection as well as resistance against alkaline and acidic deposits.
Waxing should slow down oxidation, and prevent bonding of contaminants.
o Applying a second or third coat of wax will provide even more protection, but there is no further benefit after the third coat.
5. Maintaining a good surface condition helps to prolong shine.
o You should frequently remove contaminants before they can etch or bond onto the surface. Bird droppings are very destructive, and should be removed as soon as possible.
o Needless to say, you don’t have to go through the above procedure every time you wash the car. The frequency will depend on the paint’s condition, the nature of the defects, the quality of products used, how much time you have to spend on the car, and how important the car’s appearance is to you. A nearly-new car will only need a wash and wax, but an older car usually needs the full treatment.
Detecting surface defects and contaminants
Your eyes will pick up most defects, especially if you view the car at varying angles and in different lights, such as natural sunlight, fluorescent and any other artificial lights. A magnifying glass will come in handy, but keep in mind that a visual inspection will sometimes give a false impression.
Your hands, and especially your fingers, are very sensitive. After you wash and dry the car, wash and dry your hands as well. Feel the top surfaces of the car with the insides of your hands, allowing the fingertips to tell you the condition of the paint finish. The paint should feel as smooth as glass, and if it doesn’t, the surface needs further maintenance.
Before you use any of the following car care products, read the instructions carefully and follow them. Use appropriate eye and skin protection if required.
Paint cleaners
o Always use the least aggressive method or product available.
o Work one section at a time, and work evenly, letting the product do the work.
o If you’re not satisfied with the results, try more than one application.
o Use separate 100 per cent cotton terry cloth towels to wipe off paint cleaners, as these create the most mess.
Waxes and polishes
o Apply uniform coats. Two thin coats are better than one thick coat.
o In winter, apply two coats to the lower panels that pick up most of the dirt. Apply two coats to the top surfaces, which get most of the sun, in summer.
o Use terry cloth to remove the wax. When the wax is wiped off, use a detailer to remove any remaining streaks.
o Be careful around mouldings. Tape off if necessary.
o An orbital or dual action polisher will ease the task.
o Allow sufficient time for the wax to settle before removing.
o Apply the squeak test to determine if re-waxing is needed. To do this, roll a clean dry terry cloth into a wad, and rub it on the clean upper surface of the car. If it squeaks, its time to apply another coat of wax.
Paint detailers
o Always apply on a cool surface, and only use terry cloth.
o When the detailer becomes slow to wipe off, it’s a sign that re-waxing is needed.
Tyre dressing
o Check the tyre pressure before you start.
o Begin by cleaning the tyres thoroughly.
o Be careful not to overspray onto the rims, because some products can stain them.
o Protect the whitewalls or letters when applying the dressing.
Wheel care
o Some wheel alloys can be damaged by certain wheel cleaners. Read the instructions and ask the dealer’s advice before buying a cleaner.
o The wheel must be cool to prevent staining.
o Check for staining by spot testing any cleaner on the inside of the wheel before applying.
o The safest way to remove brake dust is to use a less aggressive cleaner and a wheel brush, or toothbrush.
o Be aware that plastic centre caps on wheels can react with some cleaners.
o Always spray from the bottom up to prevent staining.
o Do not apply a wheel dressing to tyres, because it may cause a stain.
Cleaning the interior
o Use specific products for specific applications. This means leather cleaner for leather, vinyl cleaner for vinyl, and so on.
o Cotton buds or small brushes work fine on vents.
o Do not apply any dressing to the steering wheel or pedals.
o Apply vinyl/leather cleaner to a towel, and then wipe the surface. Do NOT apply/spray directly onto the surface.
o Use a good all-purpose cleaner on fabrics and carpets. Be careful when reaching under seats to clean them as you may dislodge wires or hurt your hands on sharp objects.
o Do not over-saturate carpets or upholstery, because they dry very slowly, especially the foam seat pads.
o When you’ve finished the interior, leave the doors open so that the carpets and seat coverings can dry.
Chrome, rubber and plastics
o Glass cleaner works well on chrome.
o Pre-clean rubber and plastic before dressing it.
o Use an all-purpose cleaner and brush to remove any wax build-up.
o Do not use a window cleaner on instrument panel plastics.
Cleaning accessories
o Keep a supply of odd-shaped brushes. They come in very handy for cleaning awkward corners.
o Keep wash materials, such as foam pads and cloths, clean and stored in a place where they can’t collect dust.
o Rinse buckets thoroughly before using them.
o Wear an apron, because it will keep buttons and buckles away from the car, and some of them have handy pockets.
o Use safety glasses and gloves when working with dangerous chemicals such as de-greasers and wheel cleaners.
Glass care
o The best way to quickly demist a windscreen is to use the heater with the blower fan. When it is clear, switch to cold air, to keep it clear. Do not use the recirculate setting because that will allow water vapour to build up in the car.
o The windscreen and other glass can be cleaned with soap and water, but if there are spots that will not come off, then they’re most likely oily or greasy. Such spots should be rubbed with methylated spirits diluted 1:1 with water. Another way is to buy a special windscreen wash. It can either be used in its undiluted form where contamination is stubborn, or added to your windscreen washer reservoir.
o Never use ammoniated windscreen cleaner on tinted windows.
o Carefully scrape off old decals before cleaning glass.
o Wipe in one direction for interior surfaces, and in the opposite direction for the exterior sur-faces. This makes it easier to see the streaks.
o Use one towel for an initial wipe and another for the final wipe.
o It is not safe to drive with a cracked windscreen, because modern windscreens are designed to be a stress-bearing member of the body. A cracked windscreen will not provide the structural integrity your car’s original design called for. It is also not safe to repair such a windscreen, because the repair will not restore the windscreen’s strength.
o Chips in the windscreen may be repaired as long as they have not developed into cracks, and are not in the driver’s field of direct vision. They should be repaired as soon as possible to prevent them from turning into cracks, and the repair should be done by a reputable fitment centre, because they are likely to have received the proper training. Do not go to the nearest roadside “repairer”.
o Pitting is an inevitable consequence of driving and can never be entirely avoided. It occurs when your vehicle travels through an area where sand or other hard particles have been made airborne by the wind, and collide with your windscreen at high speed leaving microscopic pit marks. The only answer is to replace the windscreen, but make sure that the job is done by a quality replacement centre.
o Windscreen wipers often cause scratches due to the rubber being worn away, exposing the glass to the bare metal of the wiper. Using wipers on a dry windscreen and allowing dirt to collect on the wiper blades also cause scratches. The only way to prevent this is to replace or clean the wipers on a regular basis. It is not advisable to attempt to remove the scratch marks on windscreens because this tends to remove material from the windscreen, resulting in distorted vision.
